SUN FLARES AND PALM TREES . . . THAILAND IS GORGEOUS

Morning Train Ride from Nikki Elizabeth on Vimeo.

Early morning on the train from Hua Hin to my new home, Thung Song. May 2013

DEAR THAILAND

Dear Thailand,

What have you done to me?

I’ve only been here for 10 days, and already so much has changed.

I eat seaweed chips and salmon chips and I ENJOY them
I call them crisps now (as a reflex from spending so much time with friends from the UK/SA)
I ate fresh (cooked) fish with its head still on it. (It was looking at me)
AND it was delicious
I learned what a beach braai is (barbeque; South African speak)
I prefer that word to barbeque; like crisps that terms also comes naturally now.
I stopped wearing makeup
I stopped caring about if I smell (we all do)
I don’t complain about the heat (THAT much)
My skin is 14 different shades of red, pale and tan and it doesn’t even matter
I stopped getting 25 mosquito bites a day
I now call mosquitos mozzies (its so much cuter)
I eat weird fruits (durian, jackfruit, rambutan, dragonfruit and papaya)
Food stalls on the side of the road are my favorite thing
I’ve stopped questioning sanitation
I’ve used a squat toilet
I talk openly about poop
I pick up a new weird snack at the 7-Eleven every time I go
I’ve been to the 7-Eleven more times in the last ten days than I have in my entire 23 years
I can’t live my life without a Tesco, when 10 days ago I didn’t even know what that was. (Far superior to Wal-Mart in every way)
I only drink whiskey or beer, as far as alcohol goes.
I’ve recovered from hangovers in only ONE HOUR in the sun
I’ve never sweat so much in my life (and been so comfortable with it)
90+ degrees and a sea breeze is now considered SO refreshing
88 degrees in the nighttime is now considered cool
I can sleep with sand in my bed
I can sleep without air conditioning (which I’ve also taken to calling aircon)
I’ve learned that getting caught in the rain isn’t always a bad thing

But most importantly:

I’ve learned to start thinking positively
I’ve learned to relax
I’ve learned to take it one day at a time
I’ve learned that stress need not exist
I believe that everything happens for a reason and it will all work out in the end
I’ve learned to embrace uncertainty, laugh instead of crying, and seize adventure
I’ve learned that you can have a DMC (deep meaningful conversation) with someone you just met
I’ve learned that everyone has their own baggage/demons/struggles/insecurities
I’ve learned that you can meet your soul mates and become a family within 5 days of being together
I’ve met some beautiful people inside and out and became best friends in a matter of days
I’ve talked to these people about things that I haven’t told my friends I’ve known for years. I’ve laughed, cried, reassurred them, shared my fears and insecurities AND told them I love them all within a week
My TEFL group is amazing.

I’m going to miss them. I hope I see you in another life, brother.

These bonds have changed my life. This group of people is amazing and wonderful as a whole and each person individually.

Life is terrible, sad, heart wrenching, unfair and hard.

But this life is beautiful.

HUA HIN TRAIN STATION

Hua Hin train station. Built in the 1920’s under the reign of King Rama VI, it’s one of Thailand’s oldest railway stations. Most of the photos are of the Royal Waiting Room, constructed in traditional Thai style architecture. 

ONLY IN THAILAND. . . [THOUGHTS ON THE SLEEPER TRAIN]

Only in Thailand. . . 

Does a 12 hr sleeper train south cost half as much as a bottle of vodka. 

($15)

 

Note to self: Thai Pringles taste the same as American Pringles. But only if you think Pringles taste about the same as a communion wafer #gross 

I’m almost done with Are You There Vodka it’s Me Chelsea, (who’s been my friend since this adventure started and I had no friends, now I had to leave said friends to move to my job), my train snacks taste like shit and I’m sweating my balls off if I had any. This must be what culture shock (or as I like to call it, PTSD) feels like. 

What if I fall out of my upper bunk? 

Okay, okay, happy thoughts. I spoke broken Thai/broken English with two Thai men while waiting for the train. There was the primary converser and his brother (I think?). The conversation went something like this: 

Thai man: where you going?

Me: Nakohn Si Thammarat 

Thai man: ohhhh Nakohn Si Thammarat 

. . . 

[long pause]

Me: same train?

Thai man: *smiles and nods* (this happens often here. It does NOT mean they agree, understand, or are saying yes.)

Me: you too? 

. . .

Me: you go to Nakohn also?

. . .

Thai man: No, No, Hat Yai 

Me: ohh, Hat Yai! *smiles and nods* 

. . .

[long pause] 

. . .

Thai man: you go alone? 

Me: no, no no, with a group (I am going on the train alone, but not about to tell anyone that) 

Thai man: ohhhh

. . .

[long pause] 

. . .

Thai man: what place(?) you going?

Me: Nakohn Si Thammarat. 

[Thai man looks confused]

Me: Toom song? (Not sure that’s even how you say it?)

Thai man tries again. Still sounds the same. I look confused. He gestures at his friend. They speak Thai 

Thai man 2: What (place) you go? 

… *still confused*

Thai man: Why you go?

Thai man 2: What you do ? 

Me: Oh! I’m teaching English 

[They exchange glances. I try again]

Me: Teach English. At school 

Them: ohhh! 

[big smiles]

Thai man: you English teacher!

Me: [nods and smiles] Yes! 

. . .

[long pause] 

. . .

Me: you go to Hat Yai too? (To the second man) 

Thai man 2: No no 

. . .

[long pause] 

. . .

Thai man 2: I here. Hua Hin. You here? 

Me: yes, I was in Hua Hin. 

Thai man: He … *gestures* my brother (?) 

[He says something in Thai. I repeat it.]

Thai man: yes yes good 

[I can only assume he said the Thai word for brother]

Thai man 2: you come back? 

Me: Maybe?  

. . .

[Thai people like to know you like their country and you’re enjoying yourself. I decide to lie]

. . .

Me: Yes! I visit Hua Hin 

Thai man: my brother, his number

[Thai man 2 takes out his phone]

The first guy’s train is called. We shake hands and smile and say goodbye. I wai at them as he wais back.  Lots of nodding and smiling and saying goodbye.

I turn away. 10 minutes later the second guy hands me his phone. It has his number in it. I write it in my phone.

Me: what is your name? 

Thai man 2: Bahpawn

Me: Bahpawn

Bapawn: [nods and smiles really big]

Me: [gestures at myself] Nikki

Bahpawn: Nikki! 

[We shake hands and wai]

Bahpawn: you . . . [gestures to phone]

Me: you want my number? 

[Bahpawn nods and smiles]

So I call him, because I can’t remember my Thai number.

Bahpawn then proceeds to tell me that when I come back he will show me around Hua Hin. 

At least I think that’s what he said? Idk I may have signed up to be this guys’ wife. 

But seriously, this was an old Asian man. He was harmless and smiled a lot. And very nice. Thais are extremely hospitable. They will take you in if you asked for it. I think he was being friendly.

In any case, I probably won’t ever return to Hua Hin as lovely (and simultaneously dirty, smelly, and hot as all Thai cities are) as it was. I’ve got bigger fish to fry.

HUA HIN: TESOL SCHOOL

ADVENTURES IN TRAVELING - BANGKOK EDITION

The last REAL blog post I wrote was all about the first leg of my journey to Thailand, in which things went wrong but not too severely. Well, it got worse. But I’m incredibly proud of the way I handled the whole mess.

So, my 13 hour plane ride was delightful, due to my mother’s sleeping mask I brought along at the last second. (That sleeping mask has since become one of my most valued possessions)
[Edit: I've since misplaced the sleeping mask. I left it on a train to Bangkok two weeks ago. *cries*]

I had a 45 minute layover in Taiwan at 11:00 pm, which was just enough time to get shuffled from one terminal to the next and appreciate how aesthetically pleasing the Taiwan airport was.

3.5 hours later, I arrived in Bangkok, at 1 in the morning. I had no idea what to do or where to go, but eventually made it to customs, (note to self, they call it immigration, hence my confusion) where they stamped my passport and let me in. Got my luggage, took out some money, made my way to “exit 3” where my driver should be waiting. He’s not. Never fear, I went through customs pretty quickly, maybe he’s just running late. Considering the fact that I’m now alone in a foreign country, I’m relatively calm, not even that worried about it. I took precautions to write down the address of my hotel, so I figured it would just work itself out. Mai pen rai and all of that Thai 'no worries' business.
[Edit: Mai pen rai means never mind, don't worry, etc. Can also be used as "you're welcome" and "forget about it"]

A blonde girl approaches me, concerned for my welfare. As a fellow white chick, she feels the need to make sure I’m okay. I explain my situation. She told me the taxis were trying to rip her off, and would we want to share a taxi if my driver doesn’t come? Sure, I agree. I suggest we wait a little longer. We walk back to where there’s other drivers, and a friendly woman who speaks SOME English asks me which company I’m looking for. I tell her, she says no they’re not on the list, and sees that I’m clutching a piece of paper with a Thai number on it. Before I even have a chance to protest, she’s gotten her phone out and is dialing Michael, the president of Xplore Asia AT 2:30 AM. Jesus. His wife answers, I apologize profusely, and she eventually calls us back and tells us that they’re so sorry, they don’t have anyone to pick me up.

At this point, I know exactly what’s happened. Of course. In the 72 hours leading up to me hopping on a plane for the other side of the world, I was the most stressed out I’ve ever been because I had trouble getting the proper visa at the DC embassy, and they had my passport until the last minute. To the point where I had emailed Michael and told him I might have to change my flight and be a day late. When I found out that I wouldn’t have to, he got another email that it would be fine, to which he responded to. But I guess that update did not get passed on to the employees that arrange hotels and transportation, because there was no one there for me.

Fine, whatever, I’ll take a taxi. Michael is kind enough to explain exactly where I should go and what I should say to ensure I don’t get ripped off (key phrase: meter, meter, meter. Yes, meter) so we set off. This is the only point in the whole journey that I’m terrified, as we get closer to Bangkok I realize I have no idea if the cab driver knows where he’s going, even though he says he does. It turns out, he doesn’t. We pull over, and between the three of us we gather that he wants to call the hotel. I have the number handy, because I came prepared. So we set off again. It’s nearly four am before we pull up at my hotel. It looks really nice! The bellhop takes my things, I pay the driver, and right before he’s about to leave the bellhop says no no, not the right hotel. I’m supposed to be at the H Residence Inn, and this is the Heritage (also called the H). Mai pen rai, the correct one is right down the street. Perfect. So I arrive, get my bags out, and check in.

There’s no room booked for me.

You no arrive until tomorrow night the man tells me.

Ah, travel plans that were cancelled and never corrected. Like the driver. I’m so exhausted at this point, and I think all my stress was used up on the visa debacle that I just smile and tell him it’s a mistake, and I’m here now, I’d like a room please.

THERE ARE NO ROOMS AVAILABLE.

Luckily, it’s only 4pm on my body clock with the time change, so while I’m exhausted I’m still thinking clearly and remember that with Thai people you can’t use confrontation or let them know you’re upset. You can only smile and be polite. I do just that, and explain that I’ve been traveling for 30 hours and I would just like a place to sleep please.

Luckily, he tells me there is an open room, but it is not clean. Fine, great, I’ll take it. Just give me a clean top sheet and I don’t care, I literally just want to lay down.

And that is how I kept my cool and made it to Bangkok after 30+ hours of traveling and a full day lost due to jet lag.

Surviving that was amazing, because I’m now confident I can handle anything Thailand throws at me. If I can keep it together and not have a melt down over all of that, then I can probably manage to make it through this whole adventure without having one at all.
(so far so good, 6 weeks in and I haven’t cried yet. Success!)

After that, I met people in my group and we became amazingly close after only a week and a half and I had the time of my life with them. I can’t wait to reunite with them in a few weeks!

EXPLORING BANGKOK

From the first 48 hours in Thailand, Bangkok in particular.

All photos from the Silom area of Bangkok.

ADVENTURES IN AIRLINE FOOD

Eva Air is the cutest. You should have seen the adorable little lime green trays they gave us our in flight meal in. Dang it, should have snapped a pic. I got the chicken, playing it safe. No plane fish for me, thanks. It was pretty decent! It came with a little side dish of tomatoes, cole slaw, and a mysterious pink slimy thing. I’m feeling adventurous (gotta start somewhere) so I tried it. To my delight, my suspicions were right and it’s smoked salmon! I ate most of it, before getting turned off by the look and texture of it, but go me! Now I like smoked salmon.

And this was just the airplane version. It’s probably even better in real life.

OH and wine was an option for dinner. FOR FREE. Success!

ADVENTURES IN FLYING

It wouldn’t be an intercontinental flight without a few bumps along the way. I decided that the cheapest (albeit not the easiest) way to fly to Thailand would be to fly with Southwest (bags checked free, yay!) from Tampa to San Francisco. Despite the 8 hour trip to get there, it wasn’t too bad, but most likely because its Southwest and they are undoubtedly the greatest. Free bags, pick your seats , check in online and boarding on a logical first come first served basis. And the crews are always hilarious! No, I’m not getting paid for this endorsement, I wish. *waves* hey Southwest, I’ll be your PR girl!

But I digress. I arrive in San Fran and have to pull off my bags to ten around and check them again in my international flight. Again, not the easiest way to do it, but whatever. My bags show up! Round one- success! But wait- I see a large stain on the front of my brand new luggage. It smells like coconut. AWESOME, my sunscreen, which of course happens to be an oil, why wouldn’t it be any less messy, has sprung a leak and is all over EVERYTHING. You’re probably thinking I’m a moron for not putting it in a plastic bag. Wrong. I thought of this scenario, it happened to leak through the bag as well. Shit happens, whatever. I locate and remove the offender and toss it - something else to buy later. I’m still in relatively good spirits, my bags both made it after all! I go to pull the handle to roll away in peace, and find that it’s stuck. No matter- ill just unjam that sucker. But to no avail.

Normally, this is would not be an issue, but I foresee me having to lug this fifty pound bag through god knows where Thailand. (Ah, in hindsight I now realized why they suggest packing light. In all fairness to myself I managed to only bring a giant camper backpack and the now broken luggage. Just two for ten months! I’m so proud)

The lady in baggage claim issues (worst job ever, am I right?) kindly informs me that she can’t help me. To give her credit though, she did attempt to yank it a few times. Thanks Southwest, I appreciate your elbow grease!

I set off, awkwardly lugging this thing by its short little handle. A miracle occurs in the form of a sweet old man, the custodian who sees me struggling and ties a plastic bag around the handle so I can pull it better. Bless his soul.

I managed to tote the two heavy bags all the way to the international terminal, realize I’m much more out of shape than I thought, and succeed in checking in. Mai pen rai, right?

To be continued, wherein I tell the elaborate and chaotic tale of what happened from Taiwan to my hotel in Bangkok.